In defense of food

How a "slow food" approach can bring us back to ourselves

Jun 30, 2025

Growing up on a small urban farm in Western Michigan, I was immersed in a world where food wasn’t just sustenance – it was a connection to the land, family, and the environment. We grew organic fruits and vegetables, raised animals, and made nearly everything we ate from scratch. “Junk food,” as my parents called it, was not allowed in the house, although my dad did have a special relationship with root beer floats, and that was our one treat, of course, accompanied by homemade ice cream.

In the 1970s and 80s, my family already practiced many of the principles Michael Pollan discusses in In Defense of Food, from eating whole foods to fostering a mindful, sustainable approach to eating. Every breakfast and dinner was eaten together as a family around the table, no television, the phone was taken off the hook, and we had only conversation.

When I moved away from home for school and became a competitive athlete, I adopted a more scientific, macro-driven approach to food, focusing on ratios and nutrient timing, and consuming processed powders and drinks to fuel my performance. I took that same approach to eating well into my adult years, and even now, as a recreational athlete, I still select foods based on their macros. Pollan’s work resonated with me and helped me realize that food plays a deeper, more holistic role in health that can’t be measured by data alone. His book was an invitation for me to return to my roots.

Slow Food

Pollan’s food philosophy emphasizes a long-term, holistic approach to prevention, one that prioritizes not only the quality of food but also nurtures soil health and fosters mindful eating habits. Reflecting on my evolving relationship with food, I realize that, over time, I have become increasingly disconnected from my food. As I read this book, it became evident how my current habits differ from the principles Pollan advocates. Pollan’s book has shifted the way I think about food and has made me realize that eating should be about more than just numbers or nutritional labels. I have a valuable opportunity to recalibrate and reconnect with these foundational aspects of food; here, I will explore integrating these ideas into my habits and broader academic journey.

Enjoy the food

Pollan emphasizes the importance of enjoying meals, celebrating sustainable food practices, and prioritizing quality over convenience. The Slow Food movement, as it’s known, has encouraged people since the mid-1980s to connect with the origins of their food, support small-scale farmers, and adopt a more mindful approach to eating. The philosophy of the movement is not based on nutritional value, numbers, or specific health benefits – it is assumed that natural food free of industrial chemicals is ‘healthy’ – and advocates for choosing food based on its sensory qualities, local economies, and sustainable practices (Brooke et. al., 2022).

As Pollan discusses, eating whole and minimally processed foods is healthier than obsessing over measuring macronutrients or strictly following food pyramids. Although I have found no research to date that has compared health indicators between individuals who follow a national food guide and those who adhere to the principles of Slow Food, I agree in principle that eating whole foods and enjoying locally grown, sustainably produced food is likely a more nutritionally sound approach, mainly when food is grown in nutrient-dense soil.

Understand how soil health impacts our overall well-being

Because of my upbringing, I was already aware that the health of the soil we grow our food in contributes directly to the health of the food we eat. My knowledge, however, was limited to “this is where vitamins and minerals come from.” My takeaway from Pollan is that soil health is foundational to the health of the entire food system, advocating for sustainable farming practices that improve food quality, protect the environment, and promote long-term food security (Pollen, 2008).

In 2023, Banerjee and van der Jeijden (2023) explored the critical role of soil microbiomes and discussed their importance to ecosystem functioning, including nutrient cycling, plant health, and biodiversity. They emphasize that soil microbiomes directly impact human and animal health and call for a holistic understanding of soil microbiomes to ensure overall well-being (Banerjee et. al., 2023).

Digging deeper, I found the work of Dr. Zach Bush, MD who has abandoned his medical practice and advocates for regenerative agriculture in his project, The Farmer’s Footprint (Zach Bush, 2023), reiterating Pollan’s idea that the importance of soil health is directly related to human and planetary health.

Reflecting on my current eating practices of reading labels and tracking macros, I have yet to find a label that measures the life-giving energy from a carrot pulled from good dirt, but after reading Pollan and understanding the Farmer’s Footprint project, I realize there might be more to food than just the food itself.

In Conclusion

Pollan’s ideas have shifted the way I think about food, from rigid macronutrient tracking to a more mindful, holistic approach to eating honoring both the origins and quality of food and my familial roots. The deeper connection to food is not just about what we eat, but also about how it is grown, how it nourishes us, and how it relates to the health of the environment. Integrating soil health research has opened my eyes to the broader implications of sustainable food systems and their impact on human health. I am inspired to explore the interconnectedness of soil microbiomes, gut health, and sustainable nutrition.

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